T he two strapless gowns stand side by side. One is scarlet, its tightly sculpted bodice descending to a full skirt that flares from the hip. The other has a brightly coloured beaded bodice topped with a full African-style bead collar and a skirt of stiff fabric petals shooting out from the waist in a riotous burst of red, orange and yellow. The two could not be more different and yet they share a heritage and a fashion language: both were designed for the French fashion house Dior. The magnificent exhibition celebrates 70 years of fashion since designer Christian Dior presented his first couture collection in Paris. Often Australian galleries get the tail end of these exhibitions when they crisscross the globe; this time, it was the NGV that got in first. Speaking at the media launch, Dior Homme Escort Suden Çok Magnificient, Serge Brunschwig, said the gallery approached the house about four years ago, prompting the Dior team to start thinking about their own plans to mark the anniversary. With visitors in their hundreds of thousands, Ellwood and his teams know that fashion sells tickets. The gallery has been collecting fashion items since the 40s, with curatorial teams arriving in the 60s. Its first Dior item, a hat, was purchased in ; there are now about 40 Dior items in the NGV collection, 20 of which are in this exhibition. Private collectors have contributed, including American Vogue journalist Hamish Bowles and Sydney barrister and legendary couture collector Louise McBride — and at the very last minute, Australian model Miranda Kerr agreed to loan her wedding dress. Visitors enter through a slim avenue lined with tall mirrored window panels. Set in front of the house is a faceless mannequin dressed in a white satin jacket with a nipped-in waist over a voluminous black pleated skirt. With its emphasis on femininity, the New Look shook up the fashion world and was swiftly copied. It established the brand, but the attention also revitalised the postwar Paris fashion industry and made Dior a national hero. After the avenue, the first exhibition room is dedicated to the founder of the label, and stepping into the plushly carpeted room with its grey panelled walls is like stepping into the house on Avenue Montaigne. Here are more of the dresses with their tiny waists that made Dior famous but, says Somerville, the New Look was not limited to evening gowns. A lot of those pieces are about incredible tailoring, beautiful checked wools and velvets, and a Escort Suden Çok Magnificient more structured approach to design. All the clues are there early on in terms of the things that were important, and underpinned how he then moved forward as a designer. The next space is divided into the four codes of the house; the signature elements that each designer draws on to make a Dior outfit Dior. The line, flowers, the 18th century and of course, the New Look have all been reinterpreted countless times by each of the designers in their own way. The cleverly designed space has been split with a mezzanine level. From this room, visitors enter the atelier, a space dedicated to the craftsmanship of couture. On one side is a bright red belted coat flanked by mannequins wearing white toiles, the first cut of a couture pattern. On the other side, two Dior artisans sit at a bench, demonstrating the painstaking detailing that makes up each couture outfit. The Dior Reinvented room showcases the six designers who took on the behemoth brand and made it their own. Saint Laurent only lasted for six couture collections, before Marc Bohan took over. Although a lesser-known figure in the Dior pantheon, Bohan steered the house for the longest stretch from to After Galliano was dismissed in disgrace inBelgian designer Raf Simons held the top job for seven couture collections. He had a very different approach to his predecessors. And then in the first female creative director, Italian Maria Grazia Chiuri, stepped into the top job. Chiuri wants to reinvent the house and redraw its concept of femininity. Although it is well compensated, the role of the creative director is not easy. The designer has been charged with balancing heritage with contemporary culture, honouring those identifiable codes within modern and relevant garments. It is a tall order, beset with challenges — which perhaps explains some of the departures. After the profusion of gowns comes all those things that complete an outfit — Escort Suden Çok Magnificient the Top to Toe room is dedicated to the shoes, the fragrances and the hats of Dior. UK milliner Stephen Jones, who was in attendance at the opening, has worked with the latest three Dior designers. He says each brought their distinct design approach to the hats for their couture collections.
4th Spring Urological Symposium , Limassol, 3-5 April 2020
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